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October 29, 2012

FLO Cycling - The FLO 30 (previously the FLO Climber)

Posted by FLO Cycling at Monday, October 29, 2012 Labels: Aerodynamics , en , FLO News , FLO Wheel Development

Chris and I have always known that we wanted to offer a great training wheel at FLO.  For over a year now, we've made mention of the FLO CLIMBER.  The FLO CLIMBER was included in our wind tunnel testing and has been on our store page listed as "coming soon" until now.  Today we are excited to announce that we've completely redesigned a new wheel and the FLO CLIMBER will become the FLO 30.  Here is a little history on the FLO CLIMBER and how we changed direction to develop the FLO 30.

History of the FLO CLIMBER and FLO 30

All of our carbon wheels use carbon fiber fairings.  This means that carbon is bonded to an aluminum rim.  When we originally designed the FLO 60, 90, and DISC, the shape of the aluminum rim profile was not important because it was to be covered by the carbon fiber fairing.  What was important was the width.  All of our CFD work pointed to a width and ultimately our rim selection for the FLO 60, 90, and DISC.  

Our original rim was a cyclocross rim that met our parameters.  During our original prototyping stage, Chris and I were building the wheels here in Las Vegas and ordered all of the components in Asia.  Once we realized that our original carbon factory was incapable of producing our wheels (you can read about it here ), we had to go back to the drawing board.  In that process we ended up custom designing the rim shape to improve the bonding surface for the carbon fiber fairings that would be connected to the FLO 60, 90, and DISC.  This rim is now a proprietary shape that is used exclusively for our product line.  

When we went to the wind tunnel, we took our original cyclocross rim (the FLO CLIMBER) to test.  The results were good, but using an open mold rim went against the grain for us.  We knew there was a better design out there and that's how the FLO 30 came to be.  A few months ago we sat down to design the FLO 30. Today we are going to walk you through that process and give you a sneak preview.

Design Goals
When we asked ourselves what we wanted in a training wheel, the first thing that came to mind was the Swiss Army Knife.  We wanted a wheel that was capable of it all.  A great climber, stable on descents, stiff yet compliant, and fast.


Here are the tools we wanted our Swiss Army Knife to come with, followed by how we tackled each one.

  1. Very Aerodynamic
  2. Bombproof
  3. Built with Quality Components
  4. Lightweight and Quality Build
  5. Ease of Use
  6. Very Affordable Pricing


1. Very Aerodynamic


The profile of our FLO 60 and 90 have a unique shape at the bottom where the spokes meet the carbon fiber.  This rounded shape was designed to make our wheels very symmetrical front to back when a tire was installed.  From past experience, we know that this shape provides great aerodynamics and has excellent crosswind stability (if you are interested in learning more about wheel aerodynamics you may like this article).  The trouble when designing the FLO 30 was fitting this unique shape into a wheel that was only 30mm deep.  Standard parallel brake tracks are about 10mm deep which gives you only 20mm of space to apply your design.  After many failed attempts, we simply couldn't fit the round symmetrical FLO shape into 20mm of rim.  To solve this problem, we changed the brake tracks.  We designed the brake tracks for the FLO 30 to have a slight angle.  This allowed us to widen the profile of the wheel and fit the round symmetrical FLO shape into only 30mm of rim.  Here is a comparison of the new FLO 30 shape vs. the original FLO CLIMBER shape.


FLO 30 vs. the FLO Climber Profile


The FLO 30's brake track starts at 24.00mm and reaches 25.82mm at the bottom.  The max width of the wheel is 25.96mm with an overall depth of 30mm.

We tested a number of profiles in CFD to find the shape we were looking for.  We then compared the old FLO Climber profile to the new FLO 30 profile.  The results were quite staggering.

CFD Results of the FLO 30 vs. the FLO Climber

It should be pointed out that the CFD was performed without the hubs and spokes.  The test included the rim profiles above with a 23mm tire attached.  The picture below shows the FLO 30 in the CFD environment.

FLO 30 in the CFD Environment

To make things even clearer, here are the test parameters we used while running the CFD Analysis.

Physics Details for the CFD Testing
We are very happy with the results and are very excited to test the wheel at the A2 Wind Tunnel in North Carolina once we get our first prototypes.

2. Bombproof

We wanted a wheel that was bombproof.  Sun, rain, winter conditions, pavement, cobbles, chip seal, etc.  In short, we wanted a wheel that could handle it all.  This is one of the reasons we chose an all aluminum rim made from 6066 Al.  6066 aluminum is stronger and lighter in weight than 6061 aluminum.  Additionally, it performs better when welded.  Owing to the fact that all of our rims, including the FLO 30, are welded, 6066 Al was the clear choice.  



3. Built with Quality Components


Great rims don't mean much if you are lacing them with poor quality spokes and using hubs with bad bearings.  Our FLO 60, 90, and DISC use industry-leading Sapim CX-Ray spokes (Lasers on the DISC) and Japanese EZO stainless steel or TPI ceramic bearings.  We chose these because we feel they are the best.  For this reason the FLO 30s will also be built with Sapim CX-Ray Spokes and Japanese EZO bearings.  We will also offer a ceramic bearing upgrade option that will support our Bike for a Kid Program.  

To learn more about our components and our Bike for a Kid Program, you can follow the links below.

Spokes:  CX- Rays
Stainless Steel Bearings:  Japanese EZO
Ceramic Bearings:  TPI
Bike for a Kid

4. Lightweight and a Quality Build

We wanted to develop a wheel that was lightweight and withstood the rigors of everyday riding.  To accomplish this, we used the following build specs and aimed for the target weights below.

Standard Build
Front Wheel:  20 Spokes, Radially Laced
Rear Wheel:  24 Spokes, 2 Cross Lacing on Drive and Non-Drive Side
Target Set Weight:  1,585g
Rider Weight Range:  up to198lbs

Clydesdale Build
Front Wheel:  20 Spokes, Radially Laced
Rear Wheel:  28 Spokes, 3 Cross Lacing on Drive and Non-Drive Side
Target Set Weight:  1,625g
Rider Weight Range:  up to 242lbs

The build specs above have worked incredibly well with the FLO 60, 90, and DISC which is why we are choosing use them for the the FLO 30.

5.  Ease of Use

Adjusting Brake Calipers
It's no surprise that wheels are getting wider.  One of the biggest requests we've had regarding the FLO CLIMBER (now the FLO 30) was to make the brake track width compatible with our current FLO line-up.  Adjusting brake calipers when you want to swap wheels is a pain.  With the new design of the FLO 30, you will not need to adjust your brake calipers when you swap between your FLO wheels.

Clinchers
At FLO we are strong believers in clinchers.  The advances in clincher tires over the last few years have made them comparable, if not better, than tubulars tires.  As a training wheel, we think it only makes sense to offer clinchers.  There's no need to glue, flats only cost a few dollars, and they are just easier to deal with.

Tubeless Ready
Another very common request was to make the wheels tubeless ready.  Tubeless road options are quickly picking up steam.  If you have a keen eye, you will notice that the profile of the FLO 30 above has a tubeless ready design.  All of the FLO 30s will come tubeless ready. 

6. Very Affordable Pricing

Our motto at FLO has always been to charge what we have to.  From day one we've been open about designing and selling wheels at affordable prices.  Even though our FLO 60 and 90 sets retail for $898, we realize that this is still a lot of money.  With the FLO 30, we wanted to offer something that was even more affordable than our current product line.  Here is our estimated pricing below.  We are pretty excited about this.

Front FLO 30:  $224
Rear FLO 30:  $274
Rear FLO 30 Clydesdale:  $274

Front FLO 30 C (Ceramic):  $324
Rear FLO 30 C:  $374
Rear FLO 30 Clydesdale Ceramic:  $374

This brings the set pricing on the stainless steel bearing options to $498 and $698 for the ceramic version.  All of the wheels will be sold individually which means you can pair them with the current FLO 60, 90, and DISC.  If you wanted a Front FLO 30 and Rear FLO 60, you would reduce the $898 (for a set of FLO 60s) price to $698.   The option to mix and match creates versatile wheel sets and pricing options.  As a final note, to our knowledge, this is the first set of aero wheels that have been designed from the ground up with CFD for under $500.   

Anticipated Release Date
We plan to release limited quantities of the wheels in the first quarter of 2013.  We are currently waiting for the mold to be completed and will then move to a prototype stage.  We will be sure to keep everyone up-to-date as things progress.

Color Options
The FLO 30s will come with the same 18 color options as the FLO 60, 90, and DISC.

Conclusion
In closing, we are very excited about the FLO 30.  The FLO CLIMBER never felt right and we are glad we are taking the steps to offer a product that we are proud of.  This is the Swiss Army Knife of our line-up and it pairs very well with our existing products.  We've learned a lot during the development and we hope you like the new FLO 30.   Please leave your comments below.  We are excited to hear what you have to say about the FLO 30. 

Take care,

Jon
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October 27, 2012

FLO Cycling - How to Build a Road Bike Step 15, Installing Your Bar Tape

Posted by FLO Cycling at Saturday, October 27, 2012 Labels: eBooks , en , How To/Education


Step 15 is the final part of our multi-part series on how to build a road bike.  There is a free eBook available that gives you instant access to the following:
  1. A FREE 43 page Full Color eBook - Available in PDF and iBook Format (iPhone/iPad)
  2. 15 FREE HD Step by Step Videos
  3. 110 FREE Full Color Pictures

    NOTE*  All Park Tool pictures are courtesy of Park Tool.  Thank you Park Tool!
To download the free eBook and videos, please visit www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php and enter your email address.

To see Step 1, Installing your Bottom Bracket, click here.
To see Step 2, Installing your Crankset and Pedals, click here.
To see Step 3, Installing your Fork, Stem, and Handlebar, click here.
To see Step 4, Hanging your Derailleurs, click here.
To see Step 5, Installing your Saddle, click here.
To see Step 6, Installing your Shifters, click here.
To see Step 7, Installing your Cassette and Wheels, click here.
To see Step 8, Mounting your Brakes, click here.
To see Step 9, Aligning your Rear Derailleur, click here.
To see Step 10, Cutting and Installing your Chain, click here.
To see Step 11, Installing Cables and Housing, click here.
To see Step 12, Connecting your Brake Cables, click here.
To see Step 13, Connecting the Rear Derailleur Cable, click here.
To see Step 14, Connecting the Front Derailleur Cable, click here.

Step 15 – Installing Your Bar Tape

What You Need

Tools: 
  • Scissors
Parts: 
  • Handlebar Tape
  • Handlebar End Plugs
  • Electrical Tape
Parts
Before You Get Started
  • Handlebar tape comes in a variety of textures and colors.  Be sure to ask your local bike shop about what type of handlebar tape would best suit you.  
Installation
  1. Begin by taping your cables into place with electrical tape (see Figure 1).
Figure 1
1.  Cover your shifter clamps with a small piece of handlebar tape (usually provided with your bar tape and already cut to length) (see Figure 2).

Figure 2
2.  Beginning wrapping the bar tape around the end of the handlebar.  Make sure to pull it tight (see Figure 3).
Figure 3
3.  Be sure to get full coverage around the shifters.  Note:  Watch the video for additional information.

4.  Finish by taping the end of the handlebar tape with electrical tape (see Figure 4).
Figure 4
5.  Roll your hoods back (see Figure 5).
Figure 5
6.  Install your bar end plugs (see Figure 6).
Figure 6
7.  You now have properly installed handlebar tape.


This completes the installation of your bar tape.


We hope you enjoyed this how-to article.  For more great content, please register for our free monthly newsletter at the top of the column on the right.  We send links to all the articles we post during the month.

The last several months have been fun showing you how to build a road bike!  We hope you've enjoyed our eBook and the accompanying videos.  If you have any questions about any of the steps, please let us know.

Take care,

Jon and Chris
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October 22, 2012

FLO Cycling - Pre-Order #2 Wheels are Here and Pre-Order #3

Posted by FLO Cycling at Monday, October 22, 2012 Labels: en , FLO News

Hello All,

We just wanted to update everyone that all of the Pre-Order #2 wheels have arrived and are currently being processed for shipping.  We plan to have everything out by the end of the week.  


For those who were not able to get wheels in Pre-Order #2, Pre-Order #3 is coming up in November.  Wheels will ship in roughly two weeks once the Pre-Order is complete.  Just in time for Santa.


Next week stay tuned for news on the upcoming FLO 30.  We're really excited about this wheel.

Take care,

Jon
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October 14, 2012

FLO Cycling - Our Site's Down but We're Still Here

Posted by FLO Cycling at Sunday, October 14, 2012 Labels: en , FLO News

Hello all,

Our hosting company has let us down and we are doing our best to not let you down.  Our site and email will be offline for the next 24 hours due to a problem with our hosting company.  In an attempt to keep in touch, we have created a temporary email if you want to chat with us.  You can also call us at the numbers below.  We are sorry for the trouble.

Temporary Email: flocycling@gmail.com
Jon's Phone Number: 702-529-4799
Chris's Phone Number: 702-529-4744

Take care,

Jon
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October 3, 2012

FLO Cycling - How to Build a Road Bike Step 14, Connecting the Front Derailleur Cable

Posted by FLO Cycling at Wednesday, October 03, 2012 Labels: eBooks , en , How To/Education


This is Step 14 of a multi-part series on how to build a road bike.  There is a free eBook available that gives you instant access to the following:
  1. A FREE 43 page Full Color eBook - Available in PDF and iBook Format (iPhone/iPad)
  2. 15 FREE HD Step by Step Videos
  3. 110 FREE Full Color Pictures
NOTE*  All Park Tool pictures are courtesy of Park Tool.  Thank you Park Tool!

To download the free eBook and videos, please visit www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php and enter your email address.


To see Step 1, Installing your Bottom Bracket, click here.
To see Step 2, Installing your Crankset and Pedals, click here.
To see Step 3, Installing your Fork, Stem, and Handlebar, click here.
To see Step 4, Hanging your Derailleurs, click here.
To see Step 5, Installing your Saddle, click here.
To see Step 6, Installing your Shifters, click here.
To see Step 7, Installing your Cassette and Wheels, click here.
To see Step 8, Mounting your Brakes, click here.
To see Step 9, Aligning your Rear Derailleur, click here.
To see Step 10, Cutting and Installing your Chain, click here.
To see Step 11, Installing Cables and Housing, click here.
To see Step 12, Connecting your Brake Cables, click here.
To see Step 13, Connecting the Rear Derailleur Cable, click here.

Step 14 – Connecting the Front Derailleur Cable

What You Need

Tools: 
  • Torque Wrench (TW-1 or TW-5)
  • Socket and Bit Set (SBS-1)
  • Hex Set (HXS-1.2) 
  • Cutters (SP-7)
  • Pliers (NP-6)
Tools

Parts: 
  • Cable Tips/End Caps
Parts

Before You Get Started
  • To prevent the chain from falling off of the cassette, you can install a chain catcher.  These are not necessary but can come in handy.
Installation


1.  Before you connect your front derailleur cable, you will want to set the Lo limit adjustment screw.  To do this, put your chain in the small ring of your crankset (it should already be there by default) and shift to the largest gear of your cassette. 

2.  From the back end of the bike, look down the chain-line to see the chain’s position relative to the inner left hand side of the derailleur cage. 

3.  Adjust your Lo limit adjustment screw so there is 1mm of space between the chain and the derailleur cage (see Figure 1).  Note:  Watching the accompanying video will provide additional information and provide a better visual representation.
Figure 1

4.  Next we will want to connect the front derailleur cable. Begin by passing the cable under the front derailleur cable bolt. 

5.  Pull the cable tight to remove all of the slack in the cable (see Figure 2).
Figure 2

6.  Tighten the derailleur cable bolt to the manufacturer's recommended torque value using a torque wrench (see Figure 3).
Figure 3

7.  It’s now time to set the Hi limit of your front derailleur.  Shift your chain into the big ring of the crankset and the smallest gear of your cassette. 

8.  From the back end of the bike, look down the chain-line to see the chain’s position relative to the inner right hand side of the derailleur cage.

9.  Adjust your Hi limit adjustment screw so there is 1mm of space between the chain and the derailleur cage (see Figure 4).  Note:  Watching the accompanying video will provide additional information and provide a better visual representation.
Figure 4

10.  If this is a new front derailleur cable, it will more than likely stretch after shifting through your gears the first few times.  After shifting through the gears the first few times, be sure to back off the front derailleur cable bolt and re-tension the cable.  

11.  Once complete, cut the excess cable and attach and end cap (ferrule) (see Figure 5).
Figure 5


12.  You now have a properly connected rear derailleur cable.



This completes connecting the front derailleur cable.


We hope you enjoyed this how-to article.  For more great content, please register for our free monthly newsletter at the top of the column on the right.  We send links to all the articles we post during the month.

Take care,

Jon and Chris
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